tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-65390937287983256732024-02-20T10:20:55.513-08:00CubeX 3D Printing BlogcubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-53642603506410168492021-10-30T19:01:00.002-07:002021-10-30T19:06:22.647-07:00All CubeX and Kisslicer related files download<p>
Use this link to download a collection of CubeX and Kisslicer files and
instructions how to use Kisslicer with the CubeX.
</p>
<p>
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1haCa45vgMeUNbaN4UXHWzZp3WLDRlJzW?usp=sharing
</p>
<p><br /></p>
cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-45868520108751598532017-04-09T14:42:00.000-07:002018-08-03T19:09:55.696-07:00<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">Hello,</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">Sorry, this blog will not be updated anymore. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">It will stay on-line for reference if anybody still has a CubeX.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">For me, the CubeX experience was besides paying way too much for an out of the box, not to specs and originally poorly functional printer, overall a positive experience, mainly because I learned (had to) a lot about the FDM 3D printing technology and was fortunate to connect with many other users that helped to get that thing working. </span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Many thanks to Giovanni, Hugues, Peter Gregory, Jetguy, Joe Stefano, GRM Products, J. Andre, Toranarod and everybody involved getting Kisslicer to work and all other contributors I have missed.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">You guys have dedicated a lot of time to come up with answers and solutions that helped many frustrated CubeX users. - Thank you !</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="background-color: black;"><span style="color: white;">I finally moved on and had bought an <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Original Prusa i3 MK2S 3D printer </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">at the end of last year. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">I am very happy with it. It worked and printed perfectly right out of the box, and none of the </span>proprietary stuff that the cube had. All is open source.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">The Original Prusa printer does not look like much but it is very affordable, easy to use and the prints are awesome. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">No surprise it got voted 3D printer of the year and it has now a unfortunately long lead time to order, but for me it was well worth to get the original prusa. The slicer it comes with is really good and the company stay behind it's product. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Check out their website and blog etc. and you will see how dedicated and customer focused the company is</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Thank you.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Rick </span>cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-19687155701949718712017-01-02T19:31:00.000-08:002017-01-02T19:35:34.495-08:00Simplify3D settings for the CubeX Printer<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">I have gotten some great prints with the Simplify3D slicer software.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">The software is not free, but I think well worth the price.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Just like with Kisslicer you need to have firmware 1.07 on your CubeX. That way it won't check if you have a CubeX cartridge installed or not.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">The software puts out a .bfb file the the CubeX can read. Just like with Kisslicer you copy the file onto the memory stick for printing.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">There are many adjustments you can do. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">One of the really cool things is that you can set different print speed, layer thickness, infill, cooling, etc... per layers. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">For example if you have a print that is wide and simple at the bottom and detailed at the top, you can have faster print speed, higher temp, etc... at the lower layers and then slow the print down at the top, add or reduce infill, fans on, etc...</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Another great feature is that you can add and remove individual supports manually. - Very helpful. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">The software is setup </span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Checkout there software for all the features.</span><br />
<a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/" target="_blank"><span style="background-color: black; color: cyan;">https://www.simplify3d.com/</span></a><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">One thing I liked better with Kisslicer is that you can see where the layer start is and therefore better select the preferred seam/print start location. Simplify3D has some different options for the layer start, but I don't see where the actual seam will be on the model when looking thru the sliced model. ???</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">The settings are saved in Process files with a ".fff" extension.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Those files can be imported and then will show up in the Profile pull down menu.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Make sure to select the proper extruder you want to use. There are several places / menu tabs where you need to select the extruder in the pull down menu.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Also make sure to set the filament diameter in the "Other" menu tab. (~1.69 mm for CubeX filament and ~ 1.75 mm for other standard filament).</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Also make sure to set the proper temperature for the filament you are using.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">To minimize filament remains to get dragged onto the first layer, I select "use skirt/brim" in the "Additions" menu and I also keep the same temperature for the first layer as the rest of the part. That way the printhead does not move away from the part for temp change after the first layer and will not create any unwanted stringing.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Here are some links to download the ".fff" process/profile files depending on your printer:</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Note: These worked for me, no guarantee they will work on your printer. (I have the GRM heated printbed installed, so it might need a different z-offset for you).</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">Select Download link and then select Download.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">CubeX single:</span><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97WHgxWDRTblI1OG8" target="_blank"><span style="background-color: black; color: cyan;">Download for CubeX single</span></a><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">CubeX Duo:</span><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97N3NEZmFBY2Q2T3c" target="_blank"><span style="background-color: black; color: cyan;">Download for CubeX Duo</span></a><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;">CubeX Trio:</span><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97WE1KRjhnNzViRnc" target="_blank"><span style="background-color: black; color: cyan;">Download for CubeX Trio</span></a><br />
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span>
cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-82723909142702294342017-01-02T19:30:00.001-08:002017-01-02T19:36:37.411-08:00Bypassing filament cartridge check and/or using aftermarket 1.75mm filament with the CubeX<div style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Here are some old news but
some users still struggle with the standard filament cartridges.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">You don’t need
any cartridge installed if you run CubeX software 1.07 (with a little trick,
see further below).</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> <span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">Or if you run Kisslicer or Simplify3D slicer.</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><b><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Running the CubeX with no cartridge installed.</span></u></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">When you create a build file with CubeX software
version 1.07, it by mistake creates an unencrypted gcode file with a “.bfb”
extension in the directory of the model file. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">You can open
that file with notepad and remove usually 2<sup>nd</sup> thru 6<sup>th</sup> line
in the code (all the lines in the beginning with a "^" in
front of it, except the “^Firmware:v1.07” line. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">So the only line with the “^” in front of it
should be the “^Firmware:v1.07”. That one needs to stay.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Removing the other ~ 5 or so lines with the “^”
in front of it will allow you to print without the software checking if there
is a cartridge installed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">A day or two later Cubify release software
version 1.08 to fix their error.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">If you need to download the 1.07 version, here is
a link to the CubeX 1.07 download. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">
</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">(Use the link
below for 1.07).</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<b><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en&q=https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8O1Vuh7iN97WGlOTG00QmtvdkE/edit?usp%3Dsharing&source=gmail&ust=1481952871162000&usg=AFQjCNEBvHimFWKf9hQit7r9pq52TCS_jw" href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8O1Vuh7iN97WGlOTG00QmtvdkE/edit?usp=sharing" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank"><span style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial;">https://drive.google.com/file/<wbr></wbr>d/0B8O1Vuh7iN97WGlOTG00QmtvdkE<wbr></wbr>/edit?usp=sharing</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">The download file is 51MB. I had to put in on
Google Drive for downloading.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<strong><span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Also, I use Kisslicer to create the printfile.
Much better. See settings in prior post.<u><o:p></o:p></u></span></strong></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">If you want to use aftermarket filament,the CubeX
needs ~ 1.70mm diameter filament. The extruder design has a fixed pulley
and drive gear so it only works with the exact diameter unlike some other
extruder designs that have a pre-loaded pulley. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Most aftermarket
filament are 1.75mm. But there are some aftermarket filament that some users
found that run on the thin side and work. I heard some users have good luck
with Matter hackers filament. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Increasing the extruder driver voltage to 1.63V
(must put heatsink on driver chip) works in most cases to have enough power to
drive/extrude the thicker 1.75mm filament.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">http://www.cubexupgrade.com is a good place to
check out. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">These
instructions are from there: <a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97R0x6WkpGSDJJLXM" style="font-family: calibri, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Setting Extruder Driver VoltageInstructions</a><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">I set my voltage
to 1.63V on each of the 3 drivers and installed heatsink on each of the 3
driver chips (CubeX Trio).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00V9QSTZW/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all" style="background-color: black;" target="_blank"><span style="background-color: black;">Heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00V9QSTZW/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all</span></a><span style="background-color: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">The current SW version is 1.08 (but 1.07 is
better because you can get into the gcode file) and the latest firmware version
is 1.07.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">So I am running SW version 1.07 and FW 1.07 and
would not update since version 1.08 blocks that “hack”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><b><u><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">Here is what I tweaked on my CubeX:</span></u></b><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">·
Relocating z-limit sensor (for consistent z-homing).</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">·
Installing Heated printbed. (A must for ABS printing, and improvement on larger
PLA parts).</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">·
Running filament spools externally and feed thru upper portion of tubing.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">-
Make sure to store your filament in sealed bag with extra desiccant bags).</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">·
Use a hack to not need cartridge chip (the cartridges and reader have many problems
so ignoring the chip and running spools externally solves that)</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">·
Using Kisslicer as software to create print file. (Creates much better print
models and support features can be easily broken off).</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">- Increased
extruder driver voltage to 1.63V and installed heatsink on driver chip.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span>
</span><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0in;">
<span style="background-color: black; color: white; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">-
Modified extruder to use 1.75mm filament.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-60323253248171052402017-01-01T19:30:00.000-08:002017-01-02T19:37:49.830-08:00CubeX Trio - Kisslicer settingsPer request, here are the Kisslicer setting that are working well for my CubeX Trio.<br />
I have been using the Kisslicer PRO version:<br />
Kisslicer 1.5 Release with CubeitModV6.05<br />
Make sure all files reside in the same folder as the .exe files.<br />
<br />
Setting are setup for the GRM heated printbed.<br />
<br />
After "slicing" the model, make sure to always scroll thru the model layer by layer to check for any possible errors. Sometimes more loops create a cleaner print.<br />
<br />
If you have already Kisslicer installed, make sure to backup your original copy with ini files.<br />
I would then create another copy of your Kisslicer folder and then dump my .ini files in that folder for testing. Make sure you are using Kisslicer 1.5 Release with CubeitModV6.05<br />
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Here are download links: </b><br />
<br />
Kisslicer ini files only:<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97WkhuRmVYalp3NG8" target="_blank">Kisslicer .ini files only</a><br />
<br />
All files except Kisslicer.exe and CubeITMod605.exe:<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97UlhIbHV6SXVsYWs" target="_blank">All files but no .exe</a><br />
<br />
All files including Kisslicer and CubeItmod .exe files (download might not work)<br />
Make sure to rename the two .exx files to .exe (because of windows security).<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97dnN3NHp3YVM2VkU" target="_blank">Kisslicer all files</a><br />
<br />
Kisslicer Manual:<br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8O1Vuh7iN97VGxYY3RhTDF6ZXM" target="_blank">Kisslicer Manual</a><br />
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<b>I have also been using the Simplify3D slicer with my CubeX. It works really well.</b><br />
<b>I can post my settings next time.</b><br />
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<b><br /></b>cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-52366502344510633272015-04-15T08:51:00.000-07:002015-07-02T07:55:07.595-07:00CubeX Resources<h2>
These are some good resources for the CubeX.</h2>
<br />
Seems like by now most users use <strong>Kisslicer</strong> with <strong>CubeIt</strong> to create the printfiles for the CubeX.<br />
<a href="http://www.kisslicer.com/contact.html">http://www.kisslicer.com/contact.html</a><br />
Kisslicer is a must have for the CubeX. Get the PRO version. Very affordable and worth it.<br />
<br />
<br />
There is also a very useful forum:<br />
<a href="https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/kisslicer-refugee-camp">https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/kisslicer-refugee-camp</a><br />
<br />
A newer forum:<br />
<a href="http://www.kisslicertalk.com/">http://www.kisslicertalk.com/</a><br />
<br />
See also Cubexupgrade for Tips and Tricks using Kisslicer.<br />
<a href="http://www.cubexupgrade.com/">http://www.cubexupgrade.com/</a><br />
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<br />
<u>Accessories and Spare Parts and Upgrades:</u><br />
<br />
<strong>GRM Products</strong> sells a heated printbed, Spare parts and other accessories for the CubeX.<br />
<a href="http://www.grmproducts.com/Home_Page.php">http://www.grmproducts.com/Home_Page.php</a><br />
<br />
<br />
CUBEX<strong>UPGRADE </strong>sells hotends, upgraded electronics and other components for the CubeX.<br />
<a href="http://www.cubexupgrade.com/">http://www.cubexupgrade.com/</a>cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-57289052342510355442014-11-15T13:21:00.000-08:002015-07-02T07:59:01.014-07:00Updated - Clogged up filament feeder tubes(<span style="color: red;">See updates highlighted in red text</span>)<br />
<br />
Depending on the environment and how you handle and store your cartridges/filament spools, sooner or later the filament (mainly PLA) will become brittle and brake. <br />
(See Post: <a href="http://cubex3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/taking-care-of-your-filament-cartridges.html" target="_blank">http://cubex3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/taking-care-of-your-filament-cartridges.html</a><br />
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There is a good chance the filament will crack sooner or later somewhere in the feeding tube and it is quite a pain to get it back out. Besides that, your print probably failed also because there was no more filament coming.<br />
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Since two of my tubes are clogged up (filament feeding tubes, that is) with broken filament pieces and I don't want to spend more time clearing them out, I decided to make a more drastic change.<br />
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<strong>Note: Proceed at own risk. Ha-ha.</strong><br />
<strong>This is most likely not recommended by the manufacturer, but I just wanted to share what I do to keep me printing happily.</strong><br />
<strong>This direct filament feed method is only intended if you run your filament spools externally.</strong><br />
<strong>Due to too much frustration of binding etc.. I generally remove the filament spools from the cartridge anyway and run them from an external mount and stick the corresponding empty cartridge case into the holder so it can read the chip.</strong><br />
<strong></strong><br />
<strong>Read this post first before you open up a filament cartridge to avoid any damage to the chip:</strong> <br />
<a href="http://cubex3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/07/cartridges-and-filament-flow-errors.html" target="_blank">http://cubex3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/07/cartridges-and-filament-flow-errors.html</a><br />
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Here is what I changed to make filament changing and filament care a lot easier for me:<br />
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It is best if you can, to unload any filament you have loaded.<br />
Otherwise turn off the power to the CubeX.<br />
Then remove the feeding tube guide plate. Make sure to not drop the screws or nuts into the system.<br />
If you have filament loaded, lift the guide plate carefully and clip the filament with side cutters right where it comes out of the feeder tube before it enters the feed motor.<br />
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After removal of Guide Plate.</div>
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<span style="color: red;">Put some tape over the top edge because it is sharp and the filament can rub against it.</span></div>
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It is best to cover the not in use feed in holes with tape so no debris can fall in.</div>
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<strong><u>To load and unload filament it is best to use the "Replace" Menu button and go thru the process. Instead of feeding the new filament thru the tubing, feed it directly into the extruder motor from the top.</u></strong></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">[Alternatively you can also exchange the filament as described below.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">To load filament, go into the "240deg" menu</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWvgWjYi-n6c_qavCuWJeLHgMf_x60YRbq9HmL9kMw-L7EZ1c6Lqf9RAZoo6Dc3KmhllwGZyQmjvnaYGO0hfb5Zs9xarKgMPZ-3rQvqc7bUSQtMcM5nU_9lb0N_gaI7vh54bvBpixToj6K/s1600/240deg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWvgWjYi-n6c_qavCuWJeLHgMf_x60YRbq9HmL9kMw-L7EZ1c6Lqf9RAZoo6Dc3KmhllwGZyQmjvnaYGO0hfb5Zs9xarKgMPZ-3rQvqc7bUSQtMcM5nU_9lb0N_gaI7vh54bvBpixToj6K/s400/240deg.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Then heat up the jet you want to load filament by tapping a couple times on the "TGT" (Target Temperature) temperature for the appropriate jet till it displays "230C" . </span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">(In this example it is jet 2 (PJ2).</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMPLC-hUsasA_AcgIGGw0SVU3PoI4FGB5e7nFtAn7pH-X1L7mdVcdJFfM1Ad_QuELXFS4cIZLG2bZDL_T9-_TUUcr849D_mpSyCnLaOENe16ZJPBbg1htwtCwMIOxl0y0z5dE0_Qr1d9T/s1600/SAM_4555.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTMPLC-hUsasA_AcgIGGw0SVU3PoI4FGB5e7nFtAn7pH-X1L7mdVcdJFfM1Ad_QuELXFS4cIZLG2bZDL_T9-_TUUcr849D_mpSyCnLaOENe16ZJPBbg1htwtCwMIOxl0y0z5dE0_Qr1d9T/s400/SAM_4555.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Then wait till the "T" temperature (Actual Temperature) to the left of the TGT temperature has reached the target temperature. (In this example the actual temperature is at 215C, so almost ready).</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tap twice on the "RPM" value so it displays "<strong><span style="color: red;">3.0</span></strong>" for the appropriate jet. This will turn the feed motor on, to advance the filament. I find it better to run the RPM at <strong><span style="color: red;">3.0</span></strong> and not higher. <strong><span style="color: red;">You want to feed the new filament right after the old filament.</span></strong></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7EFbCm38y3M6QpOCwK0A-xKd7g_pSBTIR2353IeBQc_69eWjR6RaH0r4qRwlFm0WqVjcuw_kfYdmY1Qo2j93TZLFJmVbpcVu3zEvGjfYbXi3qib9_kZz7q9ZVFuoH7NXg5nrW5PM0afm6/s1600/SAM_4571.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7EFbCm38y3M6QpOCwK0A-xKd7g_pSBTIR2353IeBQc_69eWjR6RaH0r4qRwlFm0WqVjcuw_kfYdmY1Qo2j93TZLFJmVbpcVu3zEvGjfYbXi3qib9_kZz7q9ZVFuoH7NXg5nrW5PM0afm6/s400/SAM_4571.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHr-_cIrXCASRzT37vkBapXN53aGwdkNkGxESMDh1Aegc8g22zzbAra4YgGx0ynZIf1IKnfBYFD3vEuFXBWDlJr8yzzH3BRRPQuIxlUptv9B47T3QkcXjDNpmaFkS8NlW___gkHv2w98Il/s1600/filament+feed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHr-_cIrXCASRzT37vkBapXN53aGwdkNkGxESMDh1Aegc8g22zzbAra4YgGx0ynZIf1IKnfBYFD3vEuFXBWDlJr8yzzH3BRRPQuIxlUptv9B47T3QkcXjDNpmaFkS8NlW___gkHv2w98Il/s400/filament+feed.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">When you insert the filament, you will feel it getting pulled in. Look at the print jet below and wait till a steady stream of filament comes out. You will see the color change from the old to the new filament.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Then hit the "+" button below the display to exit the Print Jet Control menu. This will turn the temperature and feed motor off. ]</span></div>
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Now while the print jet is still hot, it is a good time to give it some maintenance cleaning. It's quick and easy so I do it at least every time I change filament. (It keeps the print jet printing nice).</div>
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CAUTION: Don't touch with bare fingers. HOT HOT</div>
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I use a cloth to wipe any accumulated excess filament off the bottom jet. The crusted on filament should wipe off fairly easy while the jet it still hot. - Caution - keep your fingers cover by the rag so you don't get burned.</div>
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Filament routing:</div>
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Routing the filament as pictured above gives it enough room to move around with the movement of the print carriage.</div>
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<strong>When I am done printing, use the "Replace" Menu button to remove the cartridge.</strong></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">[Alternatively I just use wire cutters to clip the filament maybe 1" above the feeder motor. <strong><span style="color: red;">Make sure to do a straight clean cut and straighten the filament so the new filament can push straight against it when loading new filament the next time.]</span></strong></span></div>
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Store the filament spool in a bag with additional desiccant to keep it fresh and prevent it from getting brittle and break. </div>
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Also, tape the end of the filament on the spool to the side of the spool, so it keeps the winding tight when the spool is bagged.</span></strong></div>
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See "filament care" post: <a href="http://cubex3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/taking-care-of-your-filament-cartridges.html" target="_blank">http://cubex3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/taking-care-of-your-filament-cartridges.html</a></div>
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<strong><u>In a nutshell:</u></strong></div>
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<strong>Use the "Replace" Menu to get the old filament out and new filament in, except feed it directly into the extruder motor from the top (where the filament feed tube used to attach).</strong></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">[Or if you just clipped the old filament above the extruder motor, <span style="color: red;">make sure if there is previous filament in the print head, that the filament is straight with a straight cut, so the new filament can push straight against it when loading.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Just heat up the desired print jet, have the feed motor push thru the previous leftover filament that was clipped and insert the new filament right after it. - Ready to print.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">After the print just clip the filament about 1" above the feeder motor and store the filament spool in a bag with additional desiccant to keep it fresh].</span></div>
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Make sure you have your spool and cartridge case marked, so you know what goes together. </div>
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Also, tape the end of the filament on the spool to the side of the spool, so it keeps the winding tight when the spool is bagged.</span></strong></div>
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This method is for sure not as clean looking, but for me it is the least hassle and minimizes potential problems.</div>
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To me it has these advantages:</div>
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Running the filament spool externally minimizes the binding issues or they can be detected early. I still have some cartridges where the filament was crossed over within the spool, so I had to rewind them (not fun) but the open spool is much less likely to bind because it is not restricted by the cartridge and how the filament comes out of the cartridge.</div>
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It's easier to keep the whole filament bagged and sealed (except of course when you are printing) so it is less likely to get brittle and break.</div>
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I can keep an eye on the filament spool and how much is left.</div>
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Less filament waste when changing filament.</div>
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The filament is a lot easier to insert. (Before you had to fiddle with it a lot to get it finally to feed thru).</div>
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The filament change is a lot quicker.</div>
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If you use filament that is already somewhat brittle it is less likely to break using the direct feed method because it does not get flexed or straightened out which happens if it would have to go thru the feeder tube. </div>
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It's not a permanent change and I can always convert back to the standard configuration.</div>
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Also, having hinges on the lid is sooooo nice. <br />
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<br />cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-23107218734457209652014-05-24T09:36:00.000-07:002015-07-02T07:59:31.310-07:00Taking care of your filament / cartridgesI had several PLA cartridges / spools where the filament got brittle and just snapped due to moisture absorption.<br />
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The cartridges have a small desiccant pack within the cartridge, but most spools I had to take out of the cartridge because of winding and binding issues, so they are more exposed to the environment.<br />
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So it is best if complete cartridges or separate spools stay sealed with a desiccant as much as possible.<br />
Any complete cartridges or separate spools that are not in current use, I put in a small kitchen trash bag with a desiccant pack.<br />
Make sure to get most air out of the bag and close the bag so it is sealed.<br />
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Even new complete Cartridges should be stored and sealed in a bag with a larger additional desiccant. (I had filament braking issues also on complete cartridges). The desiccant in the cartridge is tiny and the cartridge itself is not very sealed by itself. And if you have used the cartridge, you have a bunch of filament out of the cartridge that you want to protect from moisture absorption.<br />
Make sure to install the locking screw into the cartridge before taking out of the CubeX and remove the locking screw again once installed back into the CubeX.<br />
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Complete Cartridge<br />
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Spool only</div>
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With open Spools, after a print, I take the spool of the holder and stick it into a plastic bag with a pouch of desiccant. There is still filament exposed between the spool and print head, so if I know I won't print with that spool for awhile, it is best to pull the whole filament out of the printer like you would do if you change cartridges, so you can keep the whole filament with spool or cartridge sealed up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jo6xYFCmL81_fw5V7LNhT46wu1eCPGbi7N3D31sB3UcUT_uSwOuaB-YBXIRgLXjUwtgbQiJfcKzrP4mipS731Cx6uwqFZUb3r81pgUpgIp-ojj9VZgL_wXSMgBEJ63rb6lo6N-j6Kbvf/s1600/spool+bagged.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4jo6xYFCmL81_fw5V7LNhT46wu1eCPGbi7N3D31sB3UcUT_uSwOuaB-YBXIRgLXjUwtgbQiJfcKzrP4mipS731Cx6uwqFZUb3r81pgUpgIp-ojj9VZgL_wXSMgBEJ63rb6lo6N-j6Kbvf/s400/spool+bagged.JPG" width="256" /></a></div>
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<strong>I had a spool where the filament had become brittle, but after storing in a bag with a few desiccant pouches it seemed less brittle and was useable again.</strong> </div>
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Here is where I got the desiccant pouches. The 10 gm are good size pouches.</div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DKQB02/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank">Link to desiccant pouches at Amazon</a></div>
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Note: The moisture absorption issue applies mainly to PLA, but I treat PLA and ABS the same and keep them both sealed as much as possible.</div>
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<strong>Also, when removing the spool from a cartridge, make sure to write onto the spool, which cartridge it belongs to, so you don't get them mixed up if you have multiple cartridges of same color etc..</strong></div>
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Also, tape the end of the filament on the spool to the side of the spool, so it keeps the winding tight when the spool is bagged.</span></strong></div>
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<br />cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-19693597000616382592013-11-13T12:23:00.000-08:002014-01-08T12:59:14.527-08:00Update for Heated Printbed users (and standard CubeX print platform)If you are using the GRM Heated Printbed on your CubeX, there are two recommended changes you can easily do. (#1 can be applied to the standard printbed also)<br />
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<strong>1.</strong> Regarding the z-sensor relocation kit:<br />
I applied some extra drops of 5 min epoxy glue onto the side of the magnet and where it mounts to, to secure it better and prevent any movements.<br />
I also put a zip-tie around the new z-sensor clip and the rail where it mounts onto, to also secure it better in place and prevent any sensor movements. <br />
With the magnet and sensor securely in place, I very rarely have to re-adjust the z-gap. I have not for quite awhile. I don't even check it anymore.<br />
I home the printer, heat up the printbed, make sure the filament is loaded, <strong>then "Home" again</strong>, select the printfile and print.<br />
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<strong>2.</strong> Applies to standard and heated printbed:<br />
After you leveled your printbed, add a M5 nut (non locking nut) to the bottom of each right and left leveling adjustment screws and tighten it against the mount. This will tighten the adjustment screw into the mount and make it more stable. I did not really have an issue with the printbed platform moving, but I noticed that I can rock it a little bit when pushed against it, so tightening the will prevent the screw to wiggle/move in the threaded mount. <br />
Make sure to use a standard non locking M5 nut so when you tighten the nut it does not turn the adjustment screw and affect your leveling adjustment.<br />
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The standard CubeX print platform comes with a locknut, but the locknut might turn your adjustment screw when tightening the nut, so it is easier to use just a regular nut.</div>
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<strong>3.</strong> Adjusting the printbed heater cycle time. The initial default heater cycle time is quite long and can cause the printbed height to vary slightly due to the temperature change cycle. This can result into slightly uneven print layers which looks like "ribbing" on the printed part.</div>
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This is easily corrected by increasing the heater cycle time.</div>
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If you just very recently bought a heated printbed, the default might be already corrected to "3".</div>
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Here is how to adjust the heater cycle time:</div>
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<li>Turn on the heater.</li>
<li>Push and hold the "Set" button till the display changes. </li>
<li>Then push the "Set" button again several times slowly (it cycles thru the different settings).</li>
<li>Cycle thru till the display shows "t 20". (That is the cycle time set to 20). </li>
<li>Select the down button to change it to 3. </li>
<li>It will save the new setting automatically and return to the normal display after 10 seconds not pushing any buttons.</li>
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NOTE: Do not change the cycle time lower than "3". With this setting the print layers come out even and a lower setting would just put more unnecessary cycle time on the relay.<br />
<strong>Also no need to adjust or tinker with any other settings on the heater controller.</strong><br />
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cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-45358872598944722072013-11-11T06:59:00.000-08:002013-11-11T06:59:38.262-08:00Coming up - CubeX maintenance and trouble shooting guideI am working on a CubeX maintenance and trouble shooting guide to post soon.cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-47291241914150844652013-11-05T22:20:00.000-08:002016-12-23T08:12:53.579-08:00New Software version 1.08<b><span style="font-size: small;">With this version you cannot bypass the print cartridge check !</span></b><br />
<strong>Only version 1.07 created the modifiable .bfb file.</strong><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">2.0 Release Highlights</span></b><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Material Profiles V8 </span></span><br />
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</span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Further improvements to seam lines</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">- ABS 0.1mm and 0.25mm are near seamless in most cases.</span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Note: 0.25mm </span></span><i><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Fast Draft </span></span></i><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">has not been modified </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">- PLA seam has been further improved </span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Improved down facing surfaces when printing geometries without a raft for both ABS and PLA material, at all layer heights. </span></span><br />
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</span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Improved part quality for ABS 0.25mm </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Optimizations have been made for "quick layers". </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">
CubeX Software has taken a leap forward by providing a detailed Help tool. The following are examples of what type of Help Tools have been added: </span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Help is now provided for various CubeX User Interface Questions. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">There is a "How To" section for installing Software & Firmware. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">There is a "Maintenance" section for setting ZGap, Checking Platform Level, Setting Print Jet Wiper, Stabilizing the Print Bed and how to appropriately Apply Magic Glue. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Tool Tips have been added to the Build Settings, Printer Configuration & Build Windows to help describe various features. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">
</span></span><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier new"; font-size: small;">o </span></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , "calibri"; font-size: small;">Additionally, Users have the ability to Press F1 to trigger topic specific Help Tools when highlighting various operations in the CubeX user interface. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "calibri";">See full release notes:</span><br />
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/CubeX%20Software%201.08%20release%20notes-RevA.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">Release notes 1.08</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Note: If you get a message "you do not have privileges to install etc....." during the install, try the install again by right clicking on the setup.exe file and select "Run as administrator".<br />
<br />
Installation Instructions:<br />
- Uninstall previous installation of CubeX Software.<br />
- Extract the cubex_software_win.zip folder<br />
- Double click on setup.exe to begin installation<br />
- The installer will direct thru the install process<br />
- after installation complete, a CubeX Shortcut will be placed on the Desktop<br />
<br />
Link to download new software version:<br />
<a href="http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14">http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
-cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-60519916850803563612013-10-16T13:42:00.002-07:002013-10-16T13:42:33.807-07:00New Software version 1.07<br />
Enhancements & Fixes:<br />
- Updated Material Profiles - version 7 - Enhancements to part quality for ABS and PLA<br />
- Fix bug where Print Jet 1 was always used for drawing the internal hatch structure in features that should be using Print Jet 2 or Print Jet 3.<br />
- There have been instances where the "Build" button on the "Build" dialogue is not available. The <br />
"Build" dialogue is now resizeable so that the "Build" button is accessible.<br />
<br />
<br />
Note: If you get an message "you do not have privileges to install etc....." during the install, try the install again by right clicking on the setup.exe file and select "Run as administrator".<br />
<br />
Installation Instructions:<br />
- Uninstall previous installation of CubeX Software.<br />
- Extract the cubex_software_win.zip folder<br />
- Double click on setup.exe to begin installation<br />
- The installer will direct thru the install process<br />
- after installation complete, a CubeX Shortcut will be placed on the Desktop<br />
<br />
Link to download new software version:<br />
<a href="http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14">http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14</a><br />
<br />
<br />
cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-39493794154112070682013-10-04T19:49:00.000-07:002013-10-08T10:13:53.437-07:00Another new Software version: 1.06Software version 1.06 just got released, shortly after the 1.05 release. - SEE NOTE below !<br />
<br />
<strong>NOTE: Maybe you want to wait downloading this version there might be a bug that can cause a filament flow error.</strong> <br />
I am getting a bad printfile when using jet 2 or jet 3.<br />
<br />
<br />
See Release notes for changes.<br />
Release notes:<br />
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/CubeX%20Software%201.06%20Release%20Notes.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">Software 1.06 Release notes PDF</a><br />
<br />
CubeX Maintainance document:<br />
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/CubeX%20Maintenance%20Checks%20Instructional.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">CubeX Maintainance check PDF</a><br />
<br />
<br />
(Note: If you get an message "you do not have privileges to install etc....." during the install, try the install again by right clicking on the setup.exe file and select "Run as administrator".<br />
<br />
Installation Instructions:<br />
- Uninstall previous installation of CubeX Software.<br />
- Extract the cubex_software_win.zip folder<br />
- Double click on setup.exe to begin installation<br />
- The installer will direct thru the install process<br />
- after installation complete, a CubeX Shortcut will be placed on the Desktop<br />
<br />
Link to download new software version:<br />
<a href="http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14">http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14</a>cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-71636903167849166702013-09-28T12:52:00.000-07:002013-09-28T12:57:49.547-07:00New CubeX software version 1.05New CubeX software version 1.05 just got released.<br />
(Current Firmware version is still 1.07)<br />
<br />
Enhancements & Fixes:<br />
- Updated Material Profiles - version 5 - Enhancements to part quality for ABS and PLA.<br />
- Updated Support Paramters - Enhancements to the supports that are used for the 0.25 mm layer thickness mode for ABS and PLA.<br />
- Fine Features & Points are inproved for PLA.<br />
- ABS Raft on PLA Parts has been improved.<br />
<br />
<br />
(Note: If you get an message "you do not have privileges to install etc....." during the install, try the install again by right clicking on the setup.exe file and select "Run as administrator".<br />
<br />
Installation Instructions:<br />
- Uninstall previous installation of CubeX Software.<br />
- Extract the cubex_software_win.zip folder<br />
- Double click on setup.exe to begin installation<br />
- The installer will direct thru the install process<br />
- after installation complete, a CubeX Shortcut will be placed on the Desktop<br />
<br />
Link to download new software version:<br />
<a href="http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14">http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14</a>cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-37846007697147483672013-09-02T16:58:00.000-07:002013-12-02T16:16:48.012-08:00PLA vs. ABS printingThere are pros and cons for either PLA or ABS material printing. Here are my experiences so far. <br />
(Please feel free to provide feedback so I can include other's experiences and knowledge).<br />
<br />
Side note: Since I have still have had some cartridge filament binding issues, I currently run all my filament spools outside the cartridge on an external holder to avoid a ruined print, and can keep an eye on the spool and filament. (see other post for more info).<br />
That's how the other 3D printers have it anyway. <br />
<br />
In general, printing flaws shows up most with black filament, just like you can see dirt more on a black car.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong><u>PLA Pros:</u></strong><br />
Prints in general come out cleaner and smoother. (except some 0.10 resolution come out worse than 0.25 resolution because printjet gets pulled away in between layers leaving a lot of "fuss" on the part.)<br />
The material is overall harder, but therefore can crack or break easier if flexed too much.<br />
Printed part dimensional tolerances are more accurate.<br />
Can be drilled and tapped.<br />
<br />
<strong><u>PLA Cons:</u></strong><br />
More difficult to "clean up" after print.<br />
Can be sanded or filed, but looses surface color finish and gets whitish were cut or sanded. (sanding or cutting marks are least visible on white PLA).<br />
Parts get soft and can warp if exposed to hot temperatures.<br />
<br />
<strong><u>ABS Pros:</u></strong><br />
Easy to clean up and rework after printing. <br />
Can be easily sanded, filed. <br />
Can be drilled or tapped.<br />
Dull or shiny surface finishes can be achieved with acetone and a rag. <br />
Higher temperature resistance.<br />
Support features are easier to remove.<br />
<br />
<strong><u>ABS Cons:</u></strong><br />
Print limitations because of higher material shrinkage and warping if you don't have a heated print bed. <br />
Some part tolerances or features might not come out as accurate or sharp as with PLA.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>These are the tools I use for part clean up after printing:</strong><br />
<br />
Tools for PLA parts:<br />
<ul>
<li>Exactor knife</li>
<li>Flush cutters</li>
<li>Sand paper (seldom used on PLA)</li>
</ul>
Tools for ABS parts:<br />
<ul>
<li>Exactor knife</li>
<li>Flush cutters</li>
<li>Sand paper </li>
<li>Acetone with rag (read safety labels for acetone)</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxHGD06fsPWqZWZr3P7fM7TMgp9G5wPGpE5V22yjUbrF6vRLIXssFqcAQ6NElpH7gScmTKLCvfFvMUWJeVxSthMva9IS6bK2YQ9s877rbucgRw-yE9Hy8ZEEofVDoNk5hwzDRrAcavX4Z/s1600/SAM_3989-.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxxHGD06fsPWqZWZr3P7fM7TMgp9G5wPGpE5V22yjUbrF6vRLIXssFqcAQ6NElpH7gScmTKLCvfFvMUWJeVxSthMva9IS6bK2YQ9s877rbucgRw-yE9Hy8ZEEofVDoNk5hwzDRrAcavX4Z/s400/SAM_3989-.JPG" width="373" /></a></div>
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<br />
Here are some print examples: (click on the pictures to enlarge).<br />
<br />
This Garmin Bike mount was printed in PLA and ABS, both seem functional print quality equivalent.<br />
I tried printing the part in 0.10 PLA, but came out crappy and was aborted early. <br />
In general, 0.25 resolution works best for PLA. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipSXDPbTeMgwj7RM8qVzzvPfo4jao4L4amBZ-qKX59Z7pR7aMowXhJ1KUMhnq6jC8uclp-QFoZU6yUjEWtJ0qvXR9-za8UQgIY9IlA_3hsaeYOFpwymsMxL16Xt1zWWpP9lC587zRiUmrY/s1600/SAM_4020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipSXDPbTeMgwj7RM8qVzzvPfo4jao4L4amBZ-qKX59Z7pR7aMowXhJ1KUMhnq6jC8uclp-QFoZU6yUjEWtJ0qvXR9-za8UQgIY9IlA_3hsaeYOFpwymsMxL16Xt1zWWpP9lC587zRiUmrY/s400/SAM_4020.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvUEdB5C4V8OxvaeT-jy84Ggw88q29oSwqOTWMNK2TwywXgu2h8dwQc5zTeTHw8T7LnLQvcQPKcXF4v-dsMReelXyrt3AgrokMUa1kmYoHoD-sSFDXhiFdd-ZFPDJfG8zD3jzikhA37pwi/s1600/SAM_3450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvUEdB5C4V8OxvaeT-jy84Ggw88q29oSwqOTWMNK2TwywXgu2h8dwQc5zTeTHw8T7LnLQvcQPKcXF4v-dsMReelXyrt3AgrokMUa1kmYoHoD-sSFDXhiFdd-ZFPDJfG8zD3jzikhA37pwi/s400/SAM_3450.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is a PLA print resolution comparison where the 0.25 produces a better print quality than 0.10.<br />
This model is only 2" tall.<br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZs09pDbcuN8t2xSPZgL-iIOG7ew4vXA2LzPiue0q8gs3xgjPKGYXzqgRE_esvVQ24_6B1_oTHMu0F5-ZxjeMQ7WI_hFJm1j-Td6TpkmUZBiINUEqmZ5l58ABLjFhSUHuUvXxDtP-Xrjn/s1600/SAM_4011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZs09pDbcuN8t2xSPZgL-iIOG7ew4vXA2LzPiue0q8gs3xgjPKGYXzqgRE_esvVQ24_6B1_oTHMu0F5-ZxjeMQ7WI_hFJm1j-Td6TpkmUZBiINUEqmZ5l58ABLjFhSUHuUvXxDtP-Xrjn/s400/SAM_4011.JPG" width="352" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYx-9Gq530owFUE8SQhXRzW0R48lMhPjlIwzUPxKurdZPvoeoojhoZdQbJBRLyRCgIsdAfhj8RadPKyRNKJEGWfbxT8ziP5FEz8jjWULJNkplI8I3ESWCR1IZLXU_6nx_YM9PfxVEQPVFB/s1600/SAM_3997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYx-9Gq530owFUE8SQhXRzW0R48lMhPjlIwzUPxKurdZPvoeoojhoZdQbJBRLyRCgIsdAfhj8RadPKyRNKJEGWfbxT8ziP5FEz8jjWULJNkplI8I3ESWCR1IZLXU_6nx_YM9PfxVEQPVFB/s400/SAM_3997.JPG" width="328" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelaM6As8NboMB9IDCC1ZBlogmYo6A70zbz_R4wVrRZDYhxP4ut3s69oJUwz74IEWOo3Y9lV5lLyR4Uuf0_0nqxtZeUECabtD3kAMGcvzp-80QbenUDJUErcmEgreKIpRG77mN9O9o1PAO/s1600/SAM_4015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjelaM6As8NboMB9IDCC1ZBlogmYo6A70zbz_R4wVrRZDYhxP4ut3s69oJUwz74IEWOo3Y9lV5lLyR4Uuf0_0nqxtZeUECabtD3kAMGcvzp-80QbenUDJUErcmEgreKIpRG77mN9O9o1PAO/s400/SAM_4015.JPG" width="372" /></a></div>
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The same model was printed with ABS in 0.10 resolution.<br />
The print quality of the 0.10 ABS model coming right of the printer, looked somewhere between the 0.10 and 0.25 PLA print.<br />
The difference is that with PLA print, there is not much improving you can do to the printed part besides cutting off the fuss and strays. the print lines will still show. That is no problem in functional parts, but might not look as good on "visual" models.<br />
As you can see on the Batman head below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_o_8YUNS2rYnk-ESWQVUAIFR0TBempJlCfG6SzUyV9qsYYO0c4CxJrR5J09ns2HwIe-Pna5cjlRVaRra-wu3Jvr-xihZXJkWZZo3ib6lPmSfR_0EdIku63aVHke4NY6moJ0kl9SsaTwto/s1600/SAM_4000.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_o_8YUNS2rYnk-ESWQVUAIFR0TBempJlCfG6SzUyV9qsYYO0c4CxJrR5J09ns2HwIe-Pna5cjlRVaRra-wu3Jvr-xihZXJkWZZo3ib6lPmSfR_0EdIku63aVHke4NY6moJ0kl9SsaTwto/s400/SAM_4000.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
Here is another model printed with PLA and ABS both in 0.25 resolution.<br />
The 0.25 PLA print came out nice without much cleanup needed.<br />
The 0.25 ABS print came out equally nice, but could be even more improved with an acetone wipe.<br />
<br />
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For the next example, PLA was a better material choice. The part being fairly long (7") and less than 2mm thick, did not work so well for ABS. I am not sure if a "thick" fill would have made a difference, since the software does not handle thin walls so well and leaves them hollow. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidrwGDZfMR4pU80I4Q75T5paJqp_Mb8muEKsKX2hlfOds71C7NTgTMJ-MesNooHDXWgF7RIEjBk43FWjRLwRor5m-TfVEs3O8QIEv895-QfuMQ9oYyjF98UiwYSnsx_6lplTKG7UPWo8yX/s1600/SAM_3969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidrwGDZfMR4pU80I4Q75T5paJqp_Mb8muEKsKX2hlfOds71C7NTgTMJ-MesNooHDXWgF7RIEjBk43FWjRLwRor5m-TfVEs3O8QIEv895-QfuMQ9oYyjF98UiwYSnsx_6lplTKG7UPWo8yX/s400/SAM_3969.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And another print comparison.<br />
This Tarbosaurus skull came off the printer cleaner in PLA, but the end result after clean up can be quite more realistic looking with the ABS part since it can be easily sanded and an acetone rub to blend (melt) in the print lines so they are not visible,<br />
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0.10 Resolution seems to work better with ABS than PLA. (stick with 0.25 for PLA).</div>
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Here are some nice prints with ABS 0.10 resolution. These came off the printer very clean.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKLtLLMwp3GmM7UFTD7PFpKFYaX7XyT_ZY6xHlqJwncQY57fqNSltgXcIfTZtK8u2HYbJllpTDpfahatdXSfTaJrVHufsBz2hSbXP18sW2c4QNqpLKFfNnyU4HurEIWtdl9iLilVzIv8D/s1600/SAM_3526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUKLtLLMwp3GmM7UFTD7PFpKFYaX7XyT_ZY6xHlqJwncQY57fqNSltgXcIfTZtK8u2HYbJllpTDpfahatdXSfTaJrVHufsBz2hSbXP18sW2c4QNqpLKFfNnyU4HurEIWtdl9iLilVzIv8D/s400/SAM_3526.JPG" width="305" /></a></div>
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ABS White 0.10 resolution</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiskGU35T2rJlGb11Sy0WQ1bGUP-ab8waYeOXjaVophnUciDIxnTR4qtNonLTZzpc4g1WVMudrjoSjeyGUlpCHnR_CGDt4Zu2_My3Ekqy-ITVhRSd4zRfkqMLSFSppwVzIcLLJRyxPLAS4A/s1600/SAM_3513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiskGU35T2rJlGb11Sy0WQ1bGUP-ab8waYeOXjaVophnUciDIxnTR4qtNonLTZzpc4g1WVMudrjoSjeyGUlpCHnR_CGDt4Zu2_My3Ekqy-ITVhRSd4zRfkqMLSFSppwVzIcLLJRyxPLAS4A/s400/SAM_3513.JPG" width="266" /></a></div>
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Sometimes no matter what you do, the print won't come out as expected, which can be just the limit of the CubeX software created build file or model geometry.<br />
Always try to position the model to minimize overhangs.<br />
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All my print comparisons were printed with heated print bed. <br />
Some parts with a very small foot print might come out ok with ABS on standard print bed.<br />
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I am planning to do the next post on support structures and print orientations.<br />
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<br />cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-79435966097904363452013-08-31T17:41:00.002-07:002013-08-31T17:41:30.035-07:00CubeX Top Cover HingeThis is a must have for the CubeX.<br />
It's nice that the top cover for the CubeX is removable for easy access, but then you always have to put the cover somewhere.<br />
I just installed a cover hinge set I bought from GRM Products. It is so nice to have. Now I just open the lid and it stays up, till you pull the lever in to close the lid. Very simple. The CubeX should have come with a hinged top cover.<br />
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The installation per instructions is straight forward. <br />
You do need to drill and tap holes into the back housing cover of the CubeX to mount the hinges to the CubeX.<br />
The Hinge kit came with all the parts and screws.<br />
For installation, you need a drill, a #19 drill bit (0.166") and a 5mm x 0.8 tap. The allen driver that came with the CubeX fits the screws for the hinge.<br />
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I was a little worried to just screw into the plastic back cover to hold the hinges and did not want to strip the thread, but the screws just need to be snug to easily hold the hinges and cover in place.<br />
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This is so nice to have now. - I like !<br />
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Here is where I bought it.<br />
<a href="http://shop.grmproducts.com/BFB-Cover-Hinge-Set-CVRHNG.htm?categoryId=5">http://shop.grmproducts.com/BFB-Cover-Hinge-Set-CVRHNG.htm?categoryId=5</a><br />
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cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-77478879334663317152013-08-07T13:08:00.001-07:002014-01-08T12:57:02.096-08:00Heated Printbed "Part 2"<br />
I have had the heated printbed now for 2 month, printing ABS and PLA parts. <br />
No more part warping. It is working great.<br />
Since there are more and more CubeX users installing the heated printbed, I thought I post my experiences and what I have learned.<br />
<br />
Here is some of my standard equipment:<br />
<br />
Alcohol<br />
Acetone slurry (Acetone with some small pieces of ABS dissolved in it)<br />
Spatula<br />
Rag<br />
Exactor knife<br />
<br />
I use kapton tape on the print platform. I use a 5" wide 1mil thick kapton tape. (This spool will last a long time). <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/151046745554?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649" target="_blank">Kapton tape link</a><br />
Some use blue painters tape, but Kapton works for me better because it gives a smoother part bottom surface.<br />
<br />
First I clean off the printbed with alcohol so the kapton tape adheres well.<br />
Then start applying the tape from the back side of the printbed and use a credit card to apply the tape to the printbed. It takes a little practice to get it on without bubbles, but does not take long.<br />
Then cut the tape with the exactor knife at the end of the printbed. The tape can be used for several prints. If it has tears in some areas from removal of a prior part, I just place the next print around it or re-apply new tape.<br />
(When removing the tape, start at the back side and then pull the tape off the printbed towards the front, and hold the front of the printbed down a little so the printbed does not get pulled up in the front during tape removal).<br />
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The 5" wide tape fits most of my prints. If there is any larger print, I place the tape side by side.<br />
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You can search the web for different ways to apply the kapton tape.<br />
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For example, you can apply some windex onto the printbed and then put the kapton tape on top and position it, then squeegee out the excess windex and heat up the bed to dry it out.<br />
Note: Don't spray windex all over the system etc., wipe excess off with rag.<br />
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<br />
<strong>Here is my printing routine:</strong><br />
<ul>
<li>Assuming there is already kapton tape on the printbed, for PLA part printing, use a rag with alcohol to clean the top printbed surface. For smaller ABS part printing, clean top printbed surface also with alcohol. For larger ABS part printing, wipe the top printbed surface with acetone slurry, which will improve ABS part adhesion. The acetone slurry will leave a "foggy" looking film on the kapton tape. </li>
<li>Note: Do not use the acetone slurry for PLA printing. Clean off acetone slurry with alcohol before PLA part printing.</li>
<li>Turn on the printer and the heated printbed power.</li>
<li>Hit the "Home" menu button. This will raise the printbed and therefore open the heated printbed shut off switch. (The heated printbed should be on now).</li>
<li>Select the desired temperature. (Default for ABS is 110deg, PLA 70deg.).</li>
<li>While the printbed is heating up (2 to 5 min) I prepare the printfile and copy it onto the memory stick.</li>
<li>Now I check and clean off any filament debris of any print jets. This can be done from the left side access in the CubeX when in "Home" position.</li>
<li>Then I select the "z-gap" menu button and check / adjust the z-gap if needed.</li>
<ul>
<li>(With the z-sensor relocation kit (included in heated bed kit), the z-gap has been more consistent).</li>
</ul>
<li>Then select the "Print" menu button and the file I want to print.</li>
<li>I still always watch the first few layers being printed and make sure all is going well.</li>
</ul>
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<strong>Heated bed temperature settings:</strong><br />
<strong><span style="font-size: large;">PLA Printing:</span></strong><br />
In general, 70deg is good.<br />
But sometimes I turn it down a little. Here is an example where a too high temperature caused a problem on a PLA part.<br />
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With the print bed at 70deg. the legs at the bottom of the PLA part stayed too warm and the part flexed a little, causing the part on top to get messed up.<br />
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Reprinting the part with the print bed at 60deg, solved the issue.</div>
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<strong><span style="font-size: large;">ABS printing:</span></strong><br />
In general 110deg is good.<br />
Very large parts with large flat bottoms, I have printed at 120deg to make sure it adheres well and won't lift. <br />
<br />
If the ambient temperature is cool and I am printing a larger ABS part, I also drape a towel over the CubeX to cover the left and front open sides to keep the heat in the print area to avoid cracks or splits in the part at higher print layers. Also crank the heated bed up to 120C.<br />
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Several smaller ABS parts I have printed at 100deg so they are easier to remove after the print.<br />
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So with different settings you can adjust to a certain degree how well the part will bond to the print bed surface.<br />
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It is best to let the print bed cool down after a print, before trying to remove the part. The part will come off easier then and also less chance of marring the part because it is cooled down and harder.<br />
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PLA parts seem to be easier to remove after printing than ABS parts. When I create the build file, I often add a "helper pad" underneath a corner of the part, which gives me an area to get the spatula underneath the part for easier removal without marring the part. The helper pad can then be easily be cut off afterwards.<br />
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/helper%20disks.zip?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">Helper disks zip file</a><br />
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It is nice not having to use the sticky glue anymore and messing with that and not having to take the print platform in and out.<br />
<br />
Using the alcohol and acetone slurry with a rag is clean since it mostly evaporates.<br />
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<br />
<br />
General CubeX stuff:<br />
For more advanced users, you can also adjust the print jet temperature.<br />
The first layer is usually printed with a higher print jet temperature to maximize filament adhesion to the print bed, then the print jet moves away, cools down a little and then continues the print at a little lower temperature. <br />
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It seems like you can also change the filament feed speed, but it changes during the print, depending on the features, so it seems to jump back to the programmed value.<br />
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I have not yet played much with tweaking the print temperature values, so I don't have any advise yet, besides "try at your own risk".<br />
I will have to do some web search to find out more about tweaking the print jet temperature for specific prints. <br />
Currently, when the build file is created, it determines the "best" temperatures for each individual part, which can vary depending on the part and material.<br />
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<br />
I am printing right now this Theropod Dino skull in PLA and then again in ABS to compare how they come out. <br />
Planning to do a Post about ABS vs. PLA, pros and cons about each, and my experiences.<br />
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cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-35096511550840584822013-07-31T20:41:00.002-07:002013-08-05T22:24:38.807-07:00New Firmware version 1.07A new Firmware version is available:<br />
The Software version is still 1.04<br />
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Version 1.07 contains enhancements to the machines accuracy and the way it senses the z gap setting.<br />
Download link:<br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><a href="http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: small;">http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14</span></a></span><br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "Tahoma","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p>The Firmware update process seems to work better now.</o:p></span><br />
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If you have problems uploading the .hex firmware file thru the web, here is the CubeX V1.07.hex file you can copy onto your local desktop and then upload it from there.<br />
<a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/CubeX%20V1.07.hex?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">CubeX V1.07.hex</a><br />
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<br />cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-12966900373600213532013-07-26T09:43:00.000-07:002013-10-04T19:35:52.617-07:00Z-gap consistency or inconsistencyThe CubeX uses reed switches / sensors for the xyz homing. The switch activates thru a magnetic field (from a magnet). The z-sensor / switch is a black ~ 4mm diameter, 25mm long cylinder that sticks down vertical close to the jets back by the large single fan on the carriage. <br />
The magnet to trigger the sensor is glued on the bottom of the print platform. The z-sensor points towards the magnet. Once the magnet with its magnetic field gets close enough to the sensor when the print platform moves up, the platform stops moving (-/+ the offset that you calibrate when setting the z-gap).<br />
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The z-sensor is positioned between the print jets and fans.<br />
The temperature in that area can vary with the jets on or off and the fans on or off,<br />
additionally the 6 fans (if you have a trio) can produce a different magnet field when they are on or off. <br />
So all this "noise" could have an effect on the repeatability of the z-sensor. <br />
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Since I repositioned the z-sensor and magnet to a less "noisy" location, the z-gap has been very consistent. <br />
The sensor repositioning kit came with the heated printbed, but you can get the z-sensor kit by itself from GRM products. <br />
<a href="http://shop.grmproducts.com/Cubex-Z-Sensor-Kit-CBX-Z-Sensor-kit.htm?categoryId=6">http://shop.grmproducts.com/Cubex-Z-Sensor-Kit-CBX-Z-Sensor-kit.htm?categoryId=6</a><br />
It installs easily without modifications to the current z-sensor setup. The current sensor just gets unplugged and the new sensor from the kit plugs into the connector instead.<br />
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This little modification is well worth it.<br />
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Also, make sure to check the "Print bed leveling aid" post, for easier print bed leveling.<br />
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Just as a reference, here are pictures of the location for the X and Y homing sensors:<br />
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In general, this is what I do before printing:<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Select the "Home" button. This will move the print jet behind the print bed so you can do step three.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Make sure the jets don't have any (not even a tiny piece at the tip) of filament left stuck on them otherwise it can affect your z-gap measurement.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Hit the "z-gap" menu button and check or adjust the z-gap with the up/down button.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Then print. </span></li>
</ol>
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Note: Always "Home" before setting or checking the z-gap. This has been most consistent.</span><br />
<ol>
</ol>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p>(Note: I am not affiliated with GRM products and I have to buy my stuff like everybody else, but I gladly promote companies with great products and services that make my life easier).</o:p></span></div>
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cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-18018532256955418152013-07-19T09:17:00.000-07:002013-11-18T09:39:30.600-08:00Filament Cartridge updateWell, the Cartridge binding issues that can cause filament flow errors etc.. might be over.<br />
Cubify made some changes to the cartridge.<br />
<br />
<div>
I just got a new ABS gray cartridge (Source Graphics has gray and white ABS in stock).</div>
<div>
Because of the known possible cartridge binding issues I did not want to take a chance of getting a print failure due to cartridge / filament binding, so I opened up the new cartridge to run it on an external holder, not knowing there were recently some improvements made to the cartridges.</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
The inner cardboard spool is now narrower to prevent / minimize binding. The filament is now almost wound up to the top on a new full spool since the spool is narrower. (But has the same amount of filament as before - close to 650g).</div>
<div>
Since there is now a gap between the side of the cardboard spool and the cartridge case, you probably don't want to push filament back into the cartridge because it could go to the side of the spool and tangle.</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Externally the new cartridge looks the same, so you can't tell the difference.</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Not sure when the cartridge improvements got implemented, but I would assume any new cartridge you are getting now, has the improvements.</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Some measurements:</div>
<div>
<div>
The old cardboard spools were ~ 46.5 mm wide. </div>
<div>
Then new cardboard spools are ~ 40.5mm wide. The diameter is still the same, and the rest of the cartridge looks the same. </div>
<div>
So from the outside, you can't tell a difference.</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
The date on the cardboard spool inside of the new cartridge is 23-05-13. </div>
<div>
The Lot # of the new cartridge I got is: X12052413-1ABS-IGR (ABS Industrial Gray)</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
The date on one of the old (wider) cardboard spool inside is 3-5-13.</div>
<div>
The Lot # on one of the older cartridges is: X12050313-1ABS-WHT (ABS White).</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
The date of the implementation of the cartridge improvement could be different for each color or type of Cartridge.</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
I put the new spool and cartridge back together and ran a 6 hour print with the new cartridge without issues. - Nice.</div>
<div>
</div>
<div>
Anyway, hopefully the binding issues are solved.</div>
<div>
</div>
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<strong><u>October 2013 Update:</u></strong></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<strong>Well, I still have some winding and binding even with the new spool design, so if one binds once, I take the spool out of the cartridge and run externally.</strong></div>
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<br />
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</div>
cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-14761064349829915472013-07-10T13:27:00.000-07:002013-11-25T23:39:15.302-08:00Cartridges and Filament flow errors<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Since there
have been several users including myself with filament cartridge issues, and
several posts about it in the CubeX user group, I thought I should post about
it here with some possible temporary help to keep printing.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">This might
help you to get by and use a problem cartridge.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">(Attempt at own risk).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Each
cartridge has a little chip at the bottom where the filament exits, that makes
contact with the CubeX when the cartridge is installed. The chip contains
information about what type of cartridge it is and possibly records the amount
left in the cartridge.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">If you have a
cartridge read error,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>you should check
that the contacts in the CubeX and on the cartridge are clean and try to
re-insert it. If that does not help try the cartridge in a different cartridge
slot if you have a duo or trio. I have had only one cartridge read error and it
went away when I re-inserted it a few times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Otherwise I don't have more help on that
one, except power cycling the CubeX and trying again.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">If your
cartridge is binding (filament won't pull out easily) and or you are getting a
filament flow error you can carefully open the cartridge and run the spool
externally. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">(Note:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A filament flow error might not always be
due to a binding cartridge.)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;">In some cases the filament is wound up crossed onto the spool and hanging the spool externally won't help either because it keeps tangling on the spool. (At least you can see what is going on with the spool hanging externally). In that case unwinding and rewinding up the filament on the spool is the only fix.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><strong><span style="font-size: large;">(Note: Be
careful to not damage the chip at the bottom of the cartridge, and careful with
the inner cardboard spool since it is only lightly glued together.)<o:p></o:p></span></strong></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><u>Here is what I did:</u></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">This has worked great for me with the 3 cartridges I had binding issues with. One I had to glue the spool back together, but got it useable off the external hanger.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Take the
cartridge out of the CubeX.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Use a exactor
knife to cut the label at the cartridge seam.</span></div>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">To open the
cartridge, start at bottom of the cartridge next to the chip. Insert a small
flat screwdriver to release the clip next to the chip. <strong>Try to keep the chip in
its place.</strong> </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Then do the
same on the clip next to it and move all the way around to open the cartridge
case.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Carefully
take the cardboard spool out. Handle the spool with care so it does not fall
apart, since it is only lightly glued together.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Once the
spool is taken out of the cartridge, make sure the chip is in its place (if the
chip fell out, make sure to position and orient it correctly, otherwise it won't
make contact with the CubeX) and then close up the empty cartridge (with chip
in place).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<strong>Also, when removing the spool from a cartridge, make sure to write onto the spool, which cartridge it belongs to, so you don't get them mixed up if you have multiple cartridges of same color etc..</strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">The empty
cartridge can now be inserted back into the CubeX.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Inspect the
spool and how the filament is wound up on it. You might have to unwind some
filament, where it is bound or tangled up, and then loosely wind the filament
back up on the spool.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">For the cardboard
spool, you need a holder with a smooth rod so the spool can rotate on it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Here is a
hanger you can print yourself (in PLA), but you also need a smooth 1/2"
rod (should be very smooth / polished) with 8-32 threaded holes on each end and
two 8-32 x 1/2" SHC screws and washers<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>and one large fender washer.</span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<br />
STL file for spool hanger: <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/Spool%20holder%20rev3.STL?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">Spool holder .stl file</a><br />
SolidWorks file for spool hanger: <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/Spool%20holder%20rev3.SLDPRT?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">Spool holder SolidWorks file</a><br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Or you can
rig up anything similar as long as the spool has a very smooth rod to hang off
and rotate on.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Take the
filament end, and make sure to get a clean cut of the filament so it will feed
in properly. The filament should be still round at the end after clipping it.
If not, you can use a exactor knife to slightly taper the end of the filament
which might help feeding it back into the guide and filament feed motor.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">After
prepping the filament end, you can then just feed the filament directly from
the hanging spool into the filament guide in front of where you inserted the
empty cartridge.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Use the
cartridge replace menu. (You can leave the empty cartridge in place during the
process).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif";">Once the
filament is feed thru and extruding , you are ready to go.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">If you have
problems feeding the filament and the motor won't pull the filament in, g<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">o into the menu with the 240C icon.
There you can heat up the jet by double clicking on the TGT temperature, it
will toggle between 0 C, 195C and 230C. Use 230C. Then you can
double click on the feed speed to get the motor feeding at different speeds, 8
or 12 should work.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Keep pushing the filament in, pull
in and out, eventually it should go.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I had a difficulties last time at a
filament change, but eventually after I re-cut the end of the filament again,
it feed in ok.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After using the cartridge, I stick it in a plastic bag with the desiccant from the cartridge, till I use it again.</span></strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></strong> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<strong><span style="font-family: Arial;"></span></strong> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-4546248592636314502013-06-29T16:02:00.001-07:002013-07-26T12:14:18.317-07:00New CubeX Software Version 1.04 and Firmware Version 1.06 available What's new?<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>I noticed there is now a "Fit to window" button.</li>
<li>The "Support" feature got improved and it seems to do somewhat better with the support structure.(If you are using the "Support" feature, it's always good to check the build file and see where the support structure is added. In some cases, you might still rather design your own support structure in the model).</li>
<li>I am getting now better result with the 0.10 resolution setting than before.</li>
</ul>
<br />
Not sure what else was changed and improved with this update.<br />
<br />
Here is the link for the software download.<br />
<a href="http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14">http://cubify.com/resource.aspx?link_id=14</a>cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-6409046587433512992013-06-21T13:49:00.001-07:002014-01-08T13:09:56.212-08:00Heated Printbed for the CubeX <span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">If you have printed with ABS, you
know that part adhesion to the print platform and part warping are quite a
challenge and issue. The much higher shrinkage rate of the ABS material
compared to PLA, make the part want to curl up at the edges.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I have printed some ABS parts with
success, but most parts with a larger base, warp too much. The CubeX
can print nice in ABS, if you can get the part to stick well to the print
platform.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuBkbZX93S_lSHihxlhhxr9HxxRoDRkfdgnjMo70Z7SUexWCda640wbEd1vaxkfDvCXJ077FD1tx-mPtSYfIgR01_YZ-GDNsubx0dxUpVFpBMhovQKD6EqxkCqXLAXT7YhO54giapoe3z/s1600/SAM_3385.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCuBkbZX93S_lSHihxlhhxr9HxxRoDRkfdgnjMo70Z7SUexWCda640wbEd1vaxkfDvCXJ077FD1tx-mPtSYfIgR01_YZ-GDNsubx0dxUpVFpBMhovQKD6EqxkCqXLAXT7YhO54giapoe3z/s400/SAM_3385.JPG" height="288" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p>In this case (Yoda model) the ABS print came out good with the standard setup, and the warped bottom does not really matter much.</o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbKRqpz-043Lfozhjpx9HFyGuF4A6WI5CPx4fIrI51IphTzbLyPjgA6VPE0qjPyK-9wfg4yNSPj6JNd6AQfIAwIb_81R6UNNEZqkoTSpeW0C_SgBdTaK77YdU_NpMK4VPCmY8x7YtkxN9/s1600/SAM_3384+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlbKRqpz-043Lfozhjpx9HFyGuF4A6WI5CPx4fIrI51IphTzbLyPjgA6VPE0qjPyK-9wfg4yNSPj6JNd6AQfIAwIb_81R6UNNEZqkoTSpeW0C_SgBdTaK77YdU_NpMK4VPCmY8x7YtkxN9/s400/SAM_3384+-+Copy.JPG" height="310" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p>But often ABS parts look like this (above).</o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span><br />
</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">After trying blue tape, different
glues, enclosing the whole printer, etc.. etc.. nothing seem to help
enough against the part lifting and warping on many parts, when printing with
ABS. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I finally acknowledged and what many
suggest, <span style="color: black;">that a </span>heated printbed
is most helpful for most ABS printing to get flat or straight parts. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So I searched and found a company
(GRM Products)</span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"> </span><a href="http://www.grmproducts.com/CubeX_Heated_Bed_System.html" target="_blank"><span style="color: blue; font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">http://www.grmproducts.com/CubeX_Heated_Bed_System.html</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">that designed a heated printbed kit
for the CubeX. They have been selling heated printbed kits for the 3D
touch printers (similar to CubeX) and gotten very good reviews. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In my ABS part warping frustration,
I did not hesitate to order the heated printbed kit and install it
in my CubeX.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpmQzyn65Pn-be9RFn3ZpSQOVYcZPSCHHJ1dFtRbskqn4gha7q-VZNQuNzgyyGaSEuQ4zDNJEz99VTyf8vUMsgo1Mgvx7euLWRfiuGyHF_1edzs-sIBl1ysZ6KX_CPDOWJzjQlzB66JkRz/s1600/SAM_3289.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpmQzyn65Pn-be9RFn3ZpSQOVYcZPSCHHJ1dFtRbskqn4gha7q-VZNQuNzgyyGaSEuQ4zDNJEz99VTyf8vUMsgo1Mgvx7euLWRfiuGyHF_1edzs-sIBl1ysZ6KX_CPDOWJzjQlzB66JkRz/s400/SAM_3289.JPG" height="400" width="346" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The installation is pretty straight
forward. You remove the standard print platform base (3 screws) and then
install the heated print bed re-using the same hardware. The controller box
attaches with high strength double stick tape onto the side of the CubeX, and
the self adhesive cable tie holders keep the cables in place. There is a cut
off switch which turns the heater automatically off when the print is done. - very nice. The
switch needs to be positioned and the switch lever needs to be adjusted to
trigger properly. You have to do a little test print and mark the position on the side how far the print bed moves down after a print so you know at what height to position the heater cut off switch. Then you can use the "Move" command to move the printbed up and down at the mark and check if the switch triggers. Once the switch is in place it's good.</span><br />
A new z-gap sensor was also installed in a different location, so the temperature changes would not affect the z-gap.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVAiI_PVSru-pm5r_c-yVNp7Hi5d_2_eggN7fU5_LWDJ7oMPFAaVhlbLkgE9BONkJv3TS5Pn8VD47gJ2Dg9RZscJg67G0CMOgRdKrwwKU0RBM-bEHyF6Jos1oq6IMXD25xfd7JAS0ljt13/s1600/printbed+installed+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVAiI_PVSru-pm5r_c-yVNp7Hi5d_2_eggN7fU5_LWDJ7oMPFAaVhlbLkgE9BONkJv3TS5Pn8VD47gJ2Dg9RZscJg67G0CMOgRdKrwwKU0RBM-bEHyF6Jos1oq6IMXD25xfd7JAS0ljt13/s400/printbed+installed+1.JPG" height="352" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p> </o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The design and finish of the heated
printbed kit is solid and very clean. The print bed top surface is a high temp glass. The
controller keeps the printbed temperature at the adjustable set temperature and
is very easy to use. The print bed heats up very quick (2min for PLA (70deg C)
and 5 min for ABS (110deg C). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The max
adjustable setting is 135deg C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The controller has also a 110V socket
in the back, which can be turned on or off with a switch at the front of the
controller.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXAcDN9k78yBa0lsNA1SRaYk-SId-Wp7o5O8IDBLzmoJAnNuQsWaXIauQo-3LQj5tfV6W7zDAD-W2CNLo9VSiKoczbWKLWWlhXuZ44ZYXRMClQ81rY1Xp6AqZy62cU36uZ7koXP2Mp0WU/s1600/SAM_3388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRXAcDN9k78yBa0lsNA1SRaYk-SId-Wp7o5O8IDBLzmoJAnNuQsWaXIauQo-3LQj5tfV6W7zDAD-W2CNLo9VSiKoczbWKLWWlhXuZ44ZYXRMClQ81rY1Xp6AqZy62cU36uZ7koXP2Mp0WU/s400/SAM_3388.JPG" height="400" width="297" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The heated print bed platform is
nice and flat. After the installation, you have to of course level the printbed
and adjust the z-gap.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">All three print platform leveling
screws are accessible.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I check the z-gap after the printbed
heated up, right before starting the print.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It was recommended to use blue
painters tape or Kapton tape. So I started with blue painters tape first.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The first print was a
2"x1" small part that I could not print on the standard printbed
without the part warping, <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>but with the
heated printbed the part printed without warping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I used blue painters tape on top of
the glass platform to print onto. Print bed temperature at 110C.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Now printing a larger part:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The second print was a 6" x
2" square. During the print I saw that the blue painters tape lifted a
little at the end of the part at the tape seam. So I aborted the print.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I only had 2" wide blue
painters tape, so on larger parts, there is always somewhere a tape seam underneath
the part. So it is best to use a wider tape or position the part that the tape
seam is more in the middle of the part vs close to part edges where you have
the most part shrinkage (pulling on the tape)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Next I put a 6" wide Kapton
tape onto the printbed and printed the same 6" x 2" square part
again. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOft7kzXlpcYDm4dn90OVu8Tv3rMuR-GYI3GVxfk1zdSAFTWvB4sGNG6jasK2FzhhWJVttsbprCfhpDHzXQX7HxqkiDfJ2EYKnurK9kpi7ZFejoq4LreNmj8PgneOBQho1aQZmjLVsWVJ/s1600/printbed+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrOft7kzXlpcYDm4dn90OVu8Tv3rMuR-GYI3GVxfk1zdSAFTWvB4sGNG6jasK2FzhhWJVttsbprCfhpDHzXQX7HxqkiDfJ2EYKnurK9kpi7ZFejoq4LreNmj8PgneOBQho1aQZmjLVsWVJ/s400/printbed+3.JPG" height="208" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The Kapton tape works great. The
part stayed flat to the platform without warping. It showed already how well it
printed without the part lifting and curling up at the edges. - awesome.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Next was a 9"L <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>x 2"W <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>x 2"H mount. I increased the printbed
temperature to 120deg C. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Since this part is so long and the
best possible adhesion might be needed, put a coat of Acetone/ABS slurry onto
the Kapton tape. (other 3D printer users with heated printbed and Kapton tape
swear by it) It is Acetone with pieces of ABS dissolved into it. I keep it in
an acetone proof container and wipe a coat of it onto the print bed with a rag.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3a1JjlfJIKF-o3x3ckeOWuLmoG2nHJRjQKoHIQYsct5jZHOW6sErC66ca07nc8j1cVIWKrmP8y8Cb2YAg8yCYTlsdTUw3xTdSLVvqFOi-dPKVR49La-I3KIE8E8kyhTqlaII4uTX3h-TS/s1600/SAM_3380.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3a1JjlfJIKF-o3x3ckeOWuLmoG2nHJRjQKoHIQYsct5jZHOW6sErC66ca07nc8j1cVIWKrmP8y8Cb2YAg8yCYTlsdTUw3xTdSLVvqFOi-dPKVR49La-I3KIE8E8kyhTqlaII4uTX3h-TS/s400/SAM_3380.JPG" height="237" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The print came out very nice. Very
flat, no warping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>- this is great!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Using the slurry, the parts can be
hard to remove from the platform after the print because the part binds so well
to the Kapton tape with the slurry applied. The "helper pads" make it easier to remove the part without marring the part. Helper disks download: <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/helper%20disks.zip?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">Helper disks zip file</a></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidykVEwQt6uv32GOGpIJh3p65vmD6pauvxOIJRiYNtnL_SZd9jaBgWpiM1xyJEV4raJ8VX8a6txVBelyIrBq9Cj5oAfKHrTjqRL83Z8nVaG93Qd-fK3BuejhfSajShruMahZ1e6w9YiGVz/s1600/new+SAM_3383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidykVEwQt6uv32GOGpIJh3p65vmD6pauvxOIJRiYNtnL_SZd9jaBgWpiM1xyJEV4raJ8VX8a6txVBelyIrBq9Cj5oAfKHrTjqRL83Z8nVaG93Qd-fK3BuejhfSajShruMahZ1e6w9YiGVz/s400/new+SAM_3383.JPG" height="400" width="266" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So on a smaller part I just print
directly onto the Kapton tape. Sometimes the Kapton tape can get damaged when
pulling the part off, but if it is not in an area where the next print is, I
leave it. The Kapton tape usually lasts for a couple prints. Otherwise just put
a new Kapton film on. I got a 5" and 6" roll of Kapton tape on
Amazon. It's fairly cheap and there is a lot on a roll. It comes also in
narrower or wider rolls.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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After the print, it is recommended to let the heated printbed and the part cool before removing it, so this takes a little longer than without a heated printbed.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">So far I only printed three smaller
PLA parts on the heated printbed (at 50 - 70deg C). No glue, directly onto the
Kapton tape. - No problem.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I will print larger parts soon and
see how it would print directly onto the glass.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The heated print bed is permanently
installed, no need to remove after a print since there is no glue to wash off.
To replace the Kapton tape I just lower the printbed and thanks to the remove
able top and access to the side and front, there is enough room to apply the
tape onto the platform. First I thought oh - no, the heated printbed is
not removable, but using it now, I find it is not necessary to remove it
at all anyway.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The heated printbed definitely makes
the difference for ABS printing.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The price for the CubeX
Heated Printbed kit is not cheap, but I am very happy with the product, quality
and ABS print results. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">It is nice now to be able to get
besides great PLA prints, also more successful ABS prints.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">To see the 9" long part print
perfectly flat on the heated printbed was quite amazing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">I will post some more ABS print
results as they come along, besides the PLA printing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p>(Note: I am not affiliated with GRM products and have to buy my stuff like everybody else, but I gladly promote companies with great products and services).</o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span> </div>
cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-61282870431533008022013-06-12T13:54:00.000-07:002013-07-11T08:48:39.912-07:00Example - Making a challenging model printable.This is just an example how a challenging model for 3D printing was modified to make it printable. It might spark some ideas next time you run into a challenging model to print.<br />
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First off, thank you to Landru who modified this model to make it easily printable and to post it on Thingiverse for everybody: - Nice.<br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14480">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14480</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeNwprR040Tyzzf1xvgqzj7OeEFrCiaSFn-sCXaZi4tUTGOnVdru_HJnLkPYzl4JIg45rvxUJj2QjXdpzM1P0I3Cu5pZtF4f-NOWLYt1hOkfOC1dB4ukGEQ7eLz_G-MkkcoY0V4uGOdHtN/s1600/tie+sw3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeNwprR040Tyzzf1xvgqzj7OeEFrCiaSFn-sCXaZi4tUTGOnVdru_HJnLkPYzl4JIg45rvxUJj2QjXdpzM1P0I3Cu5pZtF4f-NOWLYt1hOkfOC1dB4ukGEQ7eLz_G-MkkcoY0V4uGOdHtN/s400/tie+sw3.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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As you can see, this model as it is would not be printable without a lot of support structure, and even then, would most likely not come out very clean.<br />
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To solve this the model was modified and split into two pieces.<br />
Chamfers were added to many features to minimize overhangs.<br />
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Part 1:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaixTJUP052dZXRKhORhheMwAIEPglpvCw-72y6JVukcL3wi7ld1lIMdpNmp_poPGB-zTqNFEgYVOAyoL4Ryf7Vrd7E1b8_lqhYthnXDKKWWiZ-E0121avSJyxUHmn3odei6dULIhjEkEg/s1600/tie+sw1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaixTJUP052dZXRKhORhheMwAIEPglpvCw-72y6JVukcL3wi7ld1lIMdpNmp_poPGB-zTqNFEgYVOAyoL4Ryf7Vrd7E1b8_lqhYthnXDKKWWiZ-E0121avSJyxUHmn3odei6dULIhjEkEg/s400/tie+sw1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Part 2:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEbE_ObQRwF2fItgxeTtmYZO3qg8M5uLZhJ-WJ7SSbp6mFLbmTOR8Nx1CSeRjI4Vuk-2h-dRdRxopgTMy3IeqktU9rcabjU5K9tNtD5ppYcB8gOVQNNdE03iQzPdj8Pnkr7OzAMlHfWWJ/s1600/tie+sw2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEbE_ObQRwF2fItgxeTtmYZO3qg8M5uLZhJ-WJ7SSbp6mFLbmTOR8Nx1CSeRjI4Vuk-2h-dRdRxopgTMy3IeqktU9rcabjU5K9tNtD5ppYcB8gOVQNNdE03iQzPdj8Pnkr7OzAMlHfWWJ/s400/tie+sw2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Holes for alignment pins were also designed into each half of the model.</div>
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Just in case, I added little "helper disks" under the thin ends of the wings for more print bed adhesion surface to prevent any part pull up and warping. I usually don't design the helper pads into the model, instead add them when setting up the model in the CubeX software for creating the build file. (see other post about "helper pads" and download. <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/cubex3dprinting/files/helper%20disks.zip?attredirects=0&d=1" target="_blank">Helper disks zip file</a></div>
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<u><strong>Note:</strong></u> I would print one part at a time. Seem to get better results that way and minimize possible strings between parts when the print jet moves from one to the other part.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCx_zT2O0ctwHreXtZIR5x6xCkhMgHojcngRfmjq257uK9rWXYnmh6wrML5Zl8I9gFhVEO2tyLLrt-WbQidjI9KQpITWYn79SxVcsUYKHHWQS-PFiwLpD7T5nujP-uULSouUFysdIp8p7/s1600/tie+fighter+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLCx_zT2O0ctwHreXtZIR5x6xCkhMgHojcngRfmjq257uK9rWXYnmh6wrML5Zl8I9gFhVEO2tyLLrt-WbQidjI9KQpITWYn79SxVcsUYKHHWQS-PFiwLpD7T5nujP-uULSouUFysdIp8p7/s400/tie+fighter+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9poEEJKOGrQNoocyA1fRtY9reSRy5G_QFP-uX2Ngj1VUdeKB1BRreXNXLon5wu51xoUyo-hxa7criec2ObkVWXaVRFQ1fquOUyTmbF-GZXI8gP2mqmNnqLWEsiM7Z_-PO0UlAmxDuWEyG/s1600/tie+fighter+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9poEEJKOGrQNoocyA1fRtY9reSRy5G_QFP-uX2Ngj1VUdeKB1BRreXNXLon5wu51xoUyo-hxa7criec2ObkVWXaVRFQ1fquOUyTmbF-GZXI8gP2mqmNnqLWEsiM7Z_-PO0UlAmxDuWEyG/s640/tie+fighter+2.JPG" width="396" /></a></div>
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Both parts printed very nice. 0.25 Resolution, medium fill, PLA natural, no raft, no support, with added helper pads.</div>
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I just had to cut off the helper pads, insert the alignment pins and add a few drops of superglue to hold both parts together. (I used spring pins and pushed them into place with the tip of a hot soldering iron. That melted them right into place).</div>
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Printed model assembled:</div>
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Size: W: 4.2", H: 3.0", D: 5.25"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidUvk_HKIcjw7Uo58nmyIraWL-40YiwJjAnbh4ypouyCSWCxr6Q2r3NdUOlyk2ob70orgv4pbjZ3OKoPCn5PjiB-bx5mRcVX5e7QYnzR4mW4dkproEUg63nREmCYu7Wyr4HAmEfaziEZAK/s1600/tie+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidUvk_HKIcjw7Uo58nmyIraWL-40YiwJjAnbh4ypouyCSWCxr6Q2r3NdUOlyk2ob70orgv4pbjZ3OKoPCn5PjiB-bx5mRcVX5e7QYnzR4mW4dkproEUg63nREmCYu7Wyr4HAmEfaziEZAK/s400/tie+1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DbTtPjMYywEVVoVPdmb9fuZXwQrJlYP4hLV066dvuSqHC4woBIIV0Sh5CrmeIOMeewiWH8J6X3y6HtbjRweurO4bcP3Si7bTY0kuT2FYk-XIIkH73iNi3b0bX4TpkRwDSqzoXdWmmkTV/s1600/tie+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3DbTtPjMYywEVVoVPdmb9fuZXwQrJlYP4hLV066dvuSqHC4woBIIV0Sh5CrmeIOMeewiWH8J6X3y6HtbjRweurO4bcP3Si7bTY0kuT2FYk-XIIkH73iNi3b0bX4TpkRwDSqzoXdWmmkTV/s400/tie+2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcatdbh3cxIafJjKtp4D34eHO34cgVOnI2p9NKN-VPwD-dnZoQJ58u9fblnSv91rv-FHOm5xxMHVL9RpNQQFbxESIoR24kUSwJbMaNea-3NB0Nvr9GlScZy0ebPqwtpLi1pVuItdTt2RcQ/s1600/tie+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="277" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcatdbh3cxIafJjKtp4D34eHO34cgVOnI2p9NKN-VPwD-dnZoQJ58u9fblnSv91rv-FHOm5xxMHVL9RpNQQFbxESIoR24kUSwJbMaNea-3NB0Nvr9GlScZy0ebPqwtpLi1pVuItdTt2RcQ/s400/tie+3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6539093728798325673.post-29332384239871929732013-06-04T21:41:00.002-07:002013-06-04T21:41:57.193-07:00New CubeX User Guide available<a href="http://cubify.s3.amazonaws.com/public/cubex/cubex_user_guide.pdf">http://cubify.s3.amazonaws.com/public/cubex/cubex_user_guide.pdf</a>cubeX-3D-printmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16386814853378553046noreply@blogger.com0