Successful 3D Printing - Part 1

Here are a few key things to achieve a successful print. (This applies to PLA, I have not printed with ABS yet, but will do so when I get my ABS cartridges).

1. A printable model. See posts in this blog: "Model build setup", "Part orientation and Part scaling".
2. Make sure the print bed is level. NOTE: See my other post "print bed leveling aid", This is a "must" do, so you don't have to remove your top print platform to adjust the leveling. Once I have leveled the print bed, I only re-check it after a couple of prints if I keep printing smaller parts. For large parts, I would recommend checking it before every print, since it is critical to have the proper gap over the entire large part to maximize first layer adhesion and therefor minimize the part warping and pulling up from the print bed.
3. Check the z-gap before every print.  This is a quick check and easy to adjust, but it is critical to get good adhesion to the print bed. (I set the gap to just under 0.1mm or even smaller for large parts) Some use a sheet of paper for checking the z-gap. Before checking the z-gap, make sure there is not any dried up plastic at the end of any print jet before checking the z-gap. Sometimes it's just a tiny piece of plastic stuck at the end of the jet tip and it can give you a wrong z-gap reading.  I will run some tests and see how stable the z-gap stays after removing the print bed several times. Also will try if "Homing" before every print will make any difference.
4. Have the proper amount of glue applied on the print bed. For PLA you only need a very thin even layer of glue. I spread the glue very thin evenly over the print area and let it get tacky. If you apply too much glue or don't let it get tacky, the plastic might smear on top and not stick. If you apply too little glue or no glue, the plastic might not stick as well. The glue also helps to remove after the print since it is water dissolvable. Overall it does not need much glue for PLA, just and even tacky thin layer. I swipe back and forward over the applied glue with the foam of the glue stick to even out the glue and to make it evenly tacky. I apply the glue before loading the file, that gives the glue some time to get tacky.
5. Make sure all print heads are level, so they don't hit the model. Before starting the print, make sure there is not any dried up plastic at the end of any print jet which could mess up your model printed on another jet.

My standard routine:

1. Power up the printer. (the print bed was already cleaned after the last print).
2. Select the "Home" button. This will move the print jet behind the print bed so you can do step three.
3. Make sure the jets don't have any (not even a tiny piece at the tip) of filament left stuck on them otherwise it can affect your z-gap measurement.
4. Only for larger parts I recheck the print bed leveling to ensure good adhesion over the whole part.
5. Hit the "z-gap" menu button and check or adjust the z-gap with the up/down button.
6. For PLA spread a very thin even layer of glue to the print bed area the print will be on.
7. Insert the memory stick with the print file and load the print file.
8. Make sure the glue is tacky.
9. Start the print.
10. The print jet will heat up and then it starts printing.
11. I watch when the first few layers get printed to confirm I had the z-gap correct and then let it print.

Visit the CubeX users Group

Visit the Google Group for CubeX users:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/cubex-3d-printing

New CubeX Software version 1.02

Go to the website and download the new CubeX Software version 1.02 and the updated User Guide.
Some necessary bugs were fixed and some of the interface is more user friendly.
It seems like the "Build" process is also faster.
See details on: http://cubify.com/blog

File management

File management and file naming:
I created separate folders:
One for the original model files (.stl etc..)
One for created build files that I am planning to build (.cubex)
One for the build files that I have printed (.cubex)
I name the build files with the part description, build resolution, part density, raft, support, color, material, size scaling.
For example:
Dinoegg_0.25_medium_raft_support_blue_pla_75perc.cubex

If I did not use raft or support then I don't list it in the file name.

This helps me quickly to find a file for reprinting and know what settings were used.

Model build setup

Model build setup:

When you load your model into the CubeX software and set it up on the print head, pay attention to the orientation you place the model.

Each external print layer or features seem to start at the front (towards the touch screen). On the printed part you can sometimes see that “knit” line. So if you have some cosmetic features on the model, you might want to turn the model around.

Also orient the part with critical features building up. I try to study the model a little bit first and imagine how it would be built and where it might need support or not. Just run a build in the software and use the slider bar on the right to scroll thru the print path.

Sometimes it is better to design some supports into the part, since the automatic “support “ selection can overdue it with supports and you end up with a lot of after print cleanup.

Check out the Dino egg print and model. This is a great example for designed in supports. It builds very nicely with no raft and no support selected. And very little clean up needed after the print.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38463

You can see my printed version in “CubeX print” of this blog.

If you have a longer part with little contact surface to the print bed, you might want to use “raft” or place helper disks under the edges of the model. You open your model, and then you open as many disks as you need and slide them under the edges of the model to create a larger surface area for the part to stick to the print pad. The part of the disk that extrudes from the model can be cut off after the print. This is usually easier than cleaning off the raft.
Helper disk files to add onto your build platform and position under the corners of the part.
Helper disks zip file

Note: If you scale the helper disk, make sure you don't scale too small/thin, otherwise might get a print file error because the disk height is thinner than you print height resolution.
You might also get a print file error if any bottom feature of your part is thinner than your print height resolution, which can accidently happen if you scale models down.

 

 

 

Print resolution

Print resolution:

So far I had the overall best prints with the 0.25 resolution. It prints fast and quite smooth and nice in this resolution.

The 0.1 resolution gives a smoother outside model surface and can show more details, but sometimes if the model has more overhangs, the 0.1 resolution might look not as good than the 0.25 in those overhang areas.

For example this part was printed first with 0.25 resolution, medium fill, no rafts, no supports, and then printed with 0.1 resolution, medium fill, no rafts, no supports. The 0.25 print came out almost nicer. You can see the 0.1 part left some "fuss" in some areas, where the 0.25 looked already quite nice without any touchup.

 

 

 

The bottom side of the part (where it sat on the platform) should be closed, so I don't know why it did not fill the area in this print model.

On the other side, the "Hand" model came out excellent in the 0.1 resolution. Especially the inside of the hand with great detail. Quite amazing.

 

 

 

I have not gotten as good results with the 0.5 resolution. Maybe the jet temperature and print speed etc. are not as well tuned for that resolution. 0.5 is quite a big layer step so I don't see much need for it. Maybe 0.35 would be a better alternative.

The size and scaling of the model will also affect the outcome of the print in either print resolutions.
 

CubeX printed Models

Mount:
Resolution: 0.25mm
Fill:  Medium
No raft, no supports

Dino egg:
Resolution: 0.25mm
Fill: Thick
No raft, no supports (some supports were already designed into the model)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Initial setup

I would read thru the user guide completely before doing anything. The user guide is very basic, not much detailed info, but important to follow.

Plug the CubeX into a powerstrip that has an on/off switch and place the powerstrip next to the CubeX, so you can quickly turn it off if something goes wrong.

Make sure the printbed has the magnet glued on at the bottom, otherwise your printbed will not stop when it moves up and run into the printjets.
(Some users had an issue because the magnet had fallen off during shipping).

 

Note: Do not operate the CubeX without the print bed in place. The lower stage might run into the print jets.

 


After the basic setup :

- Check if the print bed sits tight and can't be pushed back and forward when is position. The white plastic bar in front of the print bed should be butted up against the print bed. By loosening the two allen screws and holding the nut underneath, you can if needed adjust the white plastic bar and butt it up against the print bed to prevent the print bed from moving.

- Level the print pad. (I use a 12" long, and 0.2mm thick stainless steel feeler gauge, which makes it easier to reach to the back corners of the print pad). NOTE: See my other post "print bed leveling aid", This is a "must" do, so you don't have to remove your top print platform to adjust the leveling .


- Check that all print nozzles are at the same level.
If you need to level the print nozzles (only applies to Duo and Trio), see this document:


Print jet replacement / leveling



- Adjust Z-gap using the z-gap menu. (I used to use a 12" long, and 0.1mm thick stainless steel feeler gauge for that but now go a little tighter) Some use just a sheet of paper to check the z-gap.
Note: Always "Home" before setting or checking the z-gap. this has been most consistent.
Before checking the z-gap, make sure there is not any dried up plastic at the end of any print jet before checking the z-gap. Sometimes it's just a tiny piece of plastic stuck at the end of the jet tip and it can give you a wrong z-gap reading.
- Check that the jet wiper is installed properly and that the Offset is properly adjusted. I my case the jet never moved behind the wiper to get cleaned off. But that was easily adjusted in the "Offset" menu. The user guide does not mention it, but I got the info from cubify support:
 

 


The distance between the wiper can be adjusted by using the offset feature on your Cube X.
You can adjust the offset of the wiper blade for your Cube X by tapping "Offset" on your Cube X's touch screen and changing the wiper setting.
Once in the offset menu, the wiper setting can be adjusted by finger tapping the number for the "Wipe" option and using the plus/minus icons.
This will allow you to adjust the X-Y wiper position of your Cube X. You will want to set the position so the wiper stick on your Cube X's print jet carriage is just behind the wiper bar.

This is about the position the wiper stick should be behind the wiper bar when adjusting the wiper offset



The vertical position of the wiper can be adjusted by turning the orange screw beneath the wiper bin.
Use the "Move" command to move the print jet behind the wiper bar as shown in picture. Then turn the orange screw below the wiper bin up or down to raise or lower the bin with the wiper. See picture below.

 

This is about  the height the wiper bar should be in relation to the print jet tip.





- Make sure the print pad is clean and dry before applying the "glue".
Have the proper amount of glue applied on the print bed. For PLA you only need a very thin even layer of glue. I spread the glue very thin evenly over the print area and let it get tacky. If you apply too much glue or don't let it get tacky, the plastic might smear on top and not stick. If you apply too little glue or no glue, the plastic might not stick as well. The glue also helps to remove after the print since it is water dissolvable. Overall it does not need much glue for PLA, just and even tacky thin layer. I swipe back and forward over the applied glue with the foam of the glue stick to even out the glue and to make it evenly tacky. I apply the glue before loading the file, that gives the glue some time to get tacky. I apply the glue before loading the file, that gives the glue some time to get tacky. The user guide says apply 3 layers, but I find that way too thick for PLA. You want to let the glue dry a little but still be tacky before starting the print. Key I think is for PLA to be thin, even and evenly tacky.

- Make sure the print nozzle does not have any leftover plastic stuck on it before starting to print. The print jet you are going to use for the print is always getting cleaned (wiped) automatically before every print, but if you have multiple print heads, the other not used print heads don't get wiped off, so you could have left over filament stuck at the end of the other print jet and it could mess up your print by dragging the leftover stuff over your new print.

One more thing:

Post purpose

Hello CubeX 3D printer users.
I just received my CubeX Trio 3D printer from 3D systems. As with any brand new product there is a learning curve.
I am a mechanical engineer and use SolidWorks a lot, so 3D modeling is easy for me. But 3D printing will take some trial and error and patience since it is for sure not plug and play, but that can be part of the fun.
So far I could not find any useful blogs about the new CubeX so I created this one to be able to share my experiences, tips and tricks. Hopefully other users will join this blog with their constructive input.
Thank you.